Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy has moved up to the point where he's hitting the tricky balance that couture demands: developing recognizable signatures, on the one hand, and spinning fantasy, on the other. He had a theme for Fall—anticipating the trip to Peru he plans to take in August. That gave him a color scheme, from the tobacco browns of gauchos to the vivid pinks, folkloric alpaca blanket stripes, and patterned knits of Inca culture. To his credit, though, he used those devices to develop more of what his growing audience has learned to love about him: his young, modern, and urban take on chic dressing, punctuated with incisive tailoring and a flair for intense shots of decoration.
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